May 16, 2017

Week 10: Long Time Gone Sew Along | Half Square Triangles Block 1

Use Template B-13 from Set B

Take advantage of this quick and easy block to both look ahead and catch up.  In the catch-up department, for some reason I still need to cut and make 2 Churn Dash blocks!

Looking Ahead and Making the Block Simultaneously

1. It looks like Jen used 35 different fabrics for her triangles and I want to do the same. When using templates, we always cut strips one dimension of the template first and then use the template for the final cut. (Yes, cut a strip even if you only want two triangles.) So, I needed 2-1/2 inch strips of both light neutrals and contrasting prints. I don’t need a lot of variety in the light neutrals so I cut strips from 7 or 8 different fabrics 2-1/2 inches wide and 10 – 12 inches long.

2. Now, what about the 35 contrasting fabrics? For efficiency, look ahead. Is there another place where we need 2-1/2 inch strips? Yes, next week in Half Square Triangles block 2, and again in the “60 degree” triangles.

What about the borders? You may remember that I’ve mentioned that I want varying widths on my three borders and 2-1/2 inches is the width for my middle border. On Jen’s borders, there are 10 or 11 strips on each 70 inch side. If I cut 35 2-1/2 inch wide strips between 10 and 18 inches long, I could accomplish four things!

    a. I could pair them with neutral strips and cut 2 B-13 Half Square Triangle sets. One set would be for this block and …
    b. I would have all the triangles I need cut for next week’s block, too.
    c. I would be close to having a full border cut.
    d. I can use at least some of the strips for the “60 degree” triangles.

If you are planning on making a 2-1/2 inch pieced binding like Jen did, you’ll probably want to cut a second strip while you have the fabric out.

3. I paired light and contrasting strips and stacked them 3 pairs high. Then I cut 2 pairs of B-13 triangles from each stack one for this week, one for nest week. Don’t skip cutting off the corners. Even with my nipped off corners, the bulk is noticeable.

4.  Next, I separated the strips and put the assorted colors aside. Since I don’t plan to put light fabrics in the border, I paired them again with new contrasting fabrics and repeated this process until I had 35 pairs of triangles.

5. Chain-piece the triangle pairs and press seams toward the darker triangle. Arrange in 5 rows of 7 as shown and join. Alternate from row to row the direction that you press the seams that join the squares to create perfect opposing seams for joining the rows.

I pressed the seams that joined the rows up. Some may choose to press that open, but I anticipate quilting in the ditch and do not want the open seam.

More Looking Ahead

If you have been following, you know I’ve already layered and quilted Section 4. I had finished piecing another set of 4 Pineapple blocks sometime ago and now with the HST Block 1 done, I’m only missing a row of 6 Peaky and Spike triangles to complete Section 1. I can’t stand not to finish! The instructions are on page 23 in the Long Time Gone book, called 60-degree triangles. They are really 53-1/2 degree triangles, but who's counting?

Using the Multiple Size Peaky and Spike – Product #8289

The 6 contrasting Spike triangles can be cut from the same 2-1/2 inch strips you just used for the HSTs. Don't forget to reposition the multi-size tool and trim off the corners for easy piecing. Instead of cutting 6 pairs of Peaky triangles, I chose to cut 7 neutral Spike triangles to alternate. It saves a lot of seams and I like the clean look better next to the HST block. Trim the neutral triangles to size on each end of the row.

On page 11 of the Peaky and Spike instruction booklet, we tell you how to join two Peaky triangles to make a rectangle, but until now we didn’t share joining 2 Spike triangles. We are sharing our future page 11 with you right now!

Excerpt, page 11:

The corners are engineered to fit perfectly when Peaky and Spike are sewn in the most common arrangement, as on page 2. The pieces fit together in other positions, shown below. but the corners do not align ideally. It just takes a little practice to create these units. For example, to make a rectangle out of two #97 triangles, cut both triangles in the same orientation and pay careful attention to matchpoints when sewing.

You can also sew Spike triangles together to make a wonderful Sawtooth border. End each strip with a Peaky triangle and use kite units for corner blocks.

Check Your Finished Block Sizes

Jen has included finished sizes for all of the units. They really aren’t suggested sizes! This jigsaw puzzle doesn’t fit together without accurate finished block sizes. If you choose to machine quilt in sections, this is a Cardinal Rule! Measure the edges that will be joined eventually. If they match before quilting and you quilt with the same density on both pieces, they will match when they are joined.

Just like section 4 shown in Week 5, I'm adding 8 inches in length and width to the batting and backing. I will position the pieced unit in the lower right corner so that all of the extra batting and backing extends at the top and left side of the quilt, as it is pictured on the inside cover of the Longtime Gone book.

Here is my Section 1 layered and ready to quilt. Just like Section 4, it has the extra batting and backing allowed for the borders to be added “Stitch and Flip.”

And here it is with the extra batting and backing rolled and pinned to be more convenient to handle when quilting.

For more information about machine quilting in sections, see my book Machine Quilting in Sections and my newest Craftsy Class by the same name.

More About Half Square Triangles Block 1

Visit these other Long Time Gone Sew Along blogs, too, for tutorials, contests and other info:

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Long Time Gone by Jen Kingwell. Copyright 2016 by Jen Kingwell Designs. Available on From Marti Michell website,

May 9, 2017

Week 9: Long Time Gone Sew Along | Log Cabin Blocks, or Chevrons

Use Log Cabin Ruler #8037 (3/4- and 1 1/2-inch finished strips).

Cut all strips to length and 1 1/4-inch wide.

If I could only make one quilt, it would have to be Log Cabin. It was the first full-size quilt I ever made and there are so many variations, I don’t think I would ever get bored. This is the second of the 3 variations Jen has included in Long Time Gone.

It made me happy when I saw that the strip widths were 1-1/4 inches cut because we have a Log Cabin Ruler (#8037) that cuts strips to length for the finished 3/4-inch strip – it is such a great width. It took me a few moments to realize Jen had used three different widths of strips in the Chevron Log Cabin. Then I calculated that I could make the 6-inch finished block I needed with the 1-1/2 inch (2-inch cut) corner square and six 3/4-inch (1-1/4 inch cut) strips on two sides and I was good to go!

My arrangement:

Log Cabin Ruler # 8037 1 1/2- and 3/4-inch finished strip widths

Jen did not select fabric to make blocks with the typical half light, half dark colors and I decided to follow her lead with a twist. I decided to try warm colors on one half and cool on the other.

Cutting the Fabrics

1. For matching corner squares, cut a strip 2-inch wide and at least 8-1/2 inches long. Cut into four 2-inch squares with the A square on the wide side of the ruler.

2. Looking at my chart for strips used in the entire quilt (posted with block 3), I see that this is the only block in the quilt that uses 1-1/4 inch strips. Because I wanted variety I cut a strip 10 or 12 inches long from 10 or 12 warm fabrics and 10 or 12 cool fabrics.

3. Cut strips to length. The beauty of cutting strips to length is that every piece that you add confirms that the block is still the right size and your ¼” seam is accurate. The smaller the strips, the more important it is to know you have an accurate seam allowance.

The first piece on each block is 2 inches long, or “b” on the narrow side of the #8037 ruler.
Cut 4. Mine were warm fabrics. From then until the last strip, you will need 4 of each value (8 total) of c, d, e, f, and g…just move up the ruler. You will only need 1 “h” per block. Mine was a cool fabric.

Making the Blocks

Chain piece all 4 blocks.

Work in alphabetical order to add strips. Press away from the corner square.

When I put my set of blocks on the design wall, I was slightly disappointed. The diagonal bands of warm and cool strips were not as distinct as I wanted and because they are lacking neutrals, they are a little “heavy” or dense looking.

It didn’t take long for me to decide on a solution.
1.  I’m not making them over! They will be almost in the middle of the quilt, so the “heavy issue” won’t ruin the balance of the quilt.
2.  But, I still wanted a better diagonal look. As soon as I put up high contrast A-6 half-square triangles to replace the multi-colored corner squares, I felt I got it. I was willing to make that change to get a stronger diagonal look. (Click the photo for a larger view.)

Join the Blocks

Follow the arrangement in the book to join the blocks. I did that and went ahead and added a sashing  strip to one side. Then I noticed that I worked clockwise on my Chevron blocks and Jen worked counter-clockwise. Oh well!

Looking Ahead

You may have noticed on my strip chart included in Week 3 (Crosses of the UK) that I said I was thinking about 3 different width borders that would equal 5-1/2 inches finished width instead of the three 1-1/4 inch borders that equal 3 3/4 inches.

I haven’t decided yet, but I’m ready to start quilting by the section. Section 4 has been on my design wall beckoning for a couple of weeks now. It measures 14-1/2 by 27-1/2 inches wide. I’m going to add 8 inches to both dimensions and cut batting and backing 22-1/2 by 35-1/2 inches. When I layer, I’ll let an inch of batting and backing extend on the top and right side of Section 4 and the remainder on the left and bottom.

After I have pinned  Section 4 in place, I’ll roll up and secure the extra batting and backing to make a nice package for quilting. Later, after the sections are joined, I’ll add the borders stitch and flip so that I quilt as I add the borders.

Visit these other Long Time Gone Sew Along blogs, too, for tutorials, contests and other info:

Use the hash tag #LongTimeGoneSAL to share photos on Instagram.

Long Time Gone by Jen Kingwell. Copyright 2016 by Jen Kingwell Designs. Available on the From Marti Michell website,

May 2, 2017

Week 8: Long Time Gone Sew Along | Courthouse Steps

Courthouse Steps is a classic variation of Log Cabin blocks. It starts with a center square, but instead of rotating around the square, you add strips with matching lengths and values to opposite sides of the center square, rotate 90° and do it again. The first set of strips and the last set of strips are unique lengths. All of the other lengths will have both one dark set of two pieces and one light set.

To create better separation between the blocks and the sashing strips that surround them, I chose to reverse the positions of light and dark strips. In other words, my shortest strips are light and the longest are dark. (Click on the illustrations for larger views.)

Like any Log Cabin block or derivative, there are three ways to come out with near perfect blocks.

1. Cut strips on the lengthwise grain, parallel to the selvages. Lengthwise grain of fabric is firm, not stretchy like crosswise grain.

2. Cut the strips to length. Jen gives you the exact lengths needed for each set of strips.

3. Sew an accurate ¼-inch seam.

Cutting for 6 Courthouse Steps Blocks

I already had a food storage container full of 1-inch strips cut on lengthwise grain because I have followed my own advice and cut extra strips every time I was cutting for other blocks. Happily, the From Marti Michell 1/2-inch Log Cabin Ruler #8227 has all the proper lengths for the Courthouse Steps blocks. We identify them both by length and letters in alphabetical order and there are no additional measurement lines to confuse your eyes.

I decided on matching orange centers. I had decided on matching periwinkle blue centers for the Pineapple blocks when I started them and liked that degree of consistency in my scrappy quilt, so why not be consistent again?

My 1-inch strips from other cutting projects were assorted lengths so it took a little extra thought to maximize the efficiency of cutting. I cleared a little space and positioned sticky notes on my cutting table. We are making 6 blocks so I need 12 pieces of each value and length. Each sticky note identified the length needed and the letter on my ruler for that length. (Use the lengths listed in small type on page 15 in Jen Kingwell's book for the lengths needed, not the big numbers on each piece in the illustration on that page.) Some people will write the sizes on small paper plates for a project like this and then they can stack them and the project is more mobile. (Click images for larger view.)

Each set of pre-cut 1-inch strips I had was different— a different number of fabrics, different lengths, etc. To maximize the available fabric, cut the longest pieces needed first. You can almost always cut one of the shorter pieces from what is left. As I cut and sorted, I would write the number of layers in the stack on the sticky note. When I had 12 pieces I knew I did not need to cut any more strips that length. In no time I had cut to length all of the strips needed and was ready to sew!

Oops! Then I realized we are making 9 blocks, not 6, and I did it again for 3 more blocks! 😊

Sewing the Blocks

It was so easy to chain piece the blocks. Chain-piece the first cut-to-length strips to one side of the center square. Leave them attached and sew pre-cut strips to the opposite side. Press away from the center, cut the units apart and do it again in the opposite value.

Generally I put the strip being added to the block on the bottom so the seam allowances I’m crossing are visible and I can make sure they are not getting twisted. However with such narrow strips, my presser foot was just a little too wide and I kept hitting the previous seam allowance and slightly distorting the seam I was stitching. So, I put the new strip on top and no problem. Do whatever works for you, but remember, it may be different with different strip widths.

Join the blocks into three sets of three as shown. On the center block reverse the direction of the last  seam allowances so they go toward the center. You will reduce the bulk and have nice opposing seam allowances when joining the blocks.

And here they are! (Click on the images for larger views.)

And here is a picture of one of my favorite Courthouse Steps quilts that is included in our Log Cabin ABCs book. It is made with 1-inch finished strips.

Looking Ahead to Checkerboards

I promised to share some tips on making scrappy checkerboard units. Strip techniques are obvious, but strip techniques usually equate with a large number of strips and a limited number of fabrics. Scrappy strip techniques require a little modification. Mainly shorter strip sets and more of them!!!

All but one of the Checkerboards are 2, 3 or 4 pieces wide, and most are 3.  So I start by joining short strips of contrasting fabrics to long strips of my neutral. Typically, I want around 5-inch constrasting strips. I can get three Checkerboard units from each, but I had a bunch of end cuts from my Churn Dash blocks in the piece photographed so I worked with them.

Press toward the darker fabrics. No matter how you arrange them later, that is the best direction. Now you have many options. You can, from left to right in the photo below:

1. Cut them into 1-1/2 inch segments and join for Checkerboard strips that are 2 squares wide. (Eventually you need around 150 pairs.) I like doing several smaller groups instead of all at once, so I get more variety as I add fabrics.

2. Or I add contrasting strips. Press toward the dark and cut into 1-1/2 inch segments 3 squares wide with contrast on the outside.

3. Or I join the segments to another neutral strip and cut into segments that are 1-1/2 inches by 3 squares with the light squares on the outside. Shown at the top of #2 and #3 is a Checkerboard made with units from both strip sets. The seams oppose each other for "automatic pinning" because the seams were already pressed toward the darker fabrics.

4. Or I join 2-square segments end to end to make rows for Checkerboards that are 4 squares wide. Why not practice on the Checkerboard for Section 2 on page 27? If you're loving it, go ahead and make the Checkerboards on page 28 for Section 3. Those will be the next 2 sections you can easily finish.

Visit these other Long Time Gone Sew Along blogs, too, for tutorials, contests and other info:

Use the hash tag #LongTimeGoneSAL to share photos on Instagram.

Long Time Gone by Jen Kingwell. Copyright 2016 by Jen Kingwell Designs. Available on the From Marti Michell website,

April 25, 2017

Week 7: Long Time Gone Sew Along | Churn Dash Blocks

Templates Used

From Marti Michell Template Set N, Product #8956, pieces #79 and #80

Selecting Fabrics

Select 21 contrasting fabric pairs for the  Churn Dash blocks. You only need a 2-1/2 by 7-inch strip of each fabric to cut all of the pieces for the 3-inch finished Churn Dash blocks, but working with 42 pieces of fabric gives you a great opportunity to cut additional strips for the rest of the quilt.

Look at our strip chart from UK Flag blocks (week 3) and check your strip stockpile to get an idea what additional widths you will need.


1. For each block, put the fabric pairs right sides together. I found it easy to cut 6 layers (3 blocks) at a time. Press and line up the fabrics at one edge and one adjacent corner of the fabric pieces.

2. Cut 2-1/2 by 7-inch strip sets. Cut the strip sets into two strips: 1 inch wide and 1-1/2 inches wide by 7 inches. (My strips are 10 inches long because I had several layer cake fabrics in the sets photographed. No problem, the extra 1 by 3-inch and 1-1/2 by 3-inch strips go in the stockpile.)

3. From the stack of 1-1/2 inch strips, cut 4 N-80 triangle pairs and 1 N-79 square.

Sewing and Pressing

1. Take cut units to machine and chain piece triangle pairs into squares and strip sets along the length.

2. Press toward the dark triangles and toward the dark strips. They are shown on my “Steady Betty” at the ironing board. If you haven’t tried the Steady Betty products we recommend them. They provide an excellent foam surface for pressing that prevents fabric from slipping or more importantly from stretching while pressing. Great for anything, but you will love it for small pieces.

3. Use template N-79 to measure and cut 4 squares from each strip set.

4. Arrange the pieced units and center squares into blocks. I stacked all 3 blocks to make the chain piecing easy. You will have one extra dark square from each combination. It is the correct size for the checkerboard strips in the finishing sections.

5. I like to chain piece the second vertical row to the first vertical row. Leave them connected. Press toward the squares with two strips.

6. Then add the third vertical row. Press toward the squares with strips. The seam allowances in each row will go in opposite directions and butt together. Leave the rows connected.

In the photo below you can see that the third vertical row is being added to the first Churn Dash block and the second block is ready to have its third row added.

The pressing is a little awkward but when the rows are connected it should prevent your from accidentally making this block:

7. Finally take advantage of the opposing seam allowances in the rows, (I call it automatic pinning), as you join the horizontal rows to complete the blocks.

When the rows are joined, press toward the top and bottom rows toward center row.

Unfortunately, every block does not have a perfect pressing plan that creates opposing seam allowances on EVERY seam. When you get ready to join the blocks, you no longer have opposing seam allowances. Be careful as you stitch across the stacked seam allowances while you join the blocks.

TIP: In another project, you might try joining Churn Dash or similar blocks with narrow sashing strips and pressing toward the strips. They frame the blocks nicely and reduce bulk. (See the bonus PDF at the end of this article.)

8. Here are my first 9 Churn Dash blocks. Aren't they cute?

Looking Ahead

I promised a picture of Section 4 from the finishing section (page 29 in the book) and here it is! I’m really happy with the way it is looking and it feels good to have some of the units joined! (This is called Psych Yourself Up…you can finish this quilt and it will be your happy quilt!)

I made a couple of small changes. I like the UK Flags touching, not separated with the gray sashing strips as in Jen's quilt. I joined the flags and then added a 1-1/2 by 4-1/2-inch strip of my checkerboard gray (not quite the same fabric as my sashing gray fabric) to the right end of the flags. Then I extended the sashing strip on the right end of the Trip Around the World block to go the entire height of that block. Those two changes meant my size was still correct.

Next week we are making Courthouse Steps blocks. Then, in next week’s Looking Ahead I’m including tips for chain piecing checkerboard pieces. Jen tells us about making the checkerboards on page 25. The #1 tip: Remember that the gray squares in the diagrams are gray fabric or whatever you chose for sashing. The white squares are prints and for most of us, the prints will be darker than the gray, not lighter. So keep that reversal in mind!


In case you like Churn Dash blocks as much as we do, we are including a PDF to make a fun Churn Dash Checkerboard quilt with Set Q that we used for the Bow Tie blocks. You will see that the method we used for cutting and piecing the Long Time Gone Churn Dash blocks was adapted from this pattern.

Click here to download the PDF.

More About the Churn Dash Blocks

Visit these other Long Time Gone Sew Along blogs, too, for tutorials, contests and other info:

Use the hash tag #LongTimeGoneSAL to share photos on Instagram.

Long Time Gone by Jen Kingwell. Copyright 2016 by Jen Kingwell Designs. Available on From Marti Michell website,

April 18, 2017

Week 6: Long Time Gone Sew Along | Plus A Star

Tools Used

  • Use Perfect Patchwork Template Set A #8251, square template #5, for measuring strip widths the Marti Way and cutting the squares.
  • Use template triangle A-6 for the half-square triangles.
  • The From Marti Michell 6½” Squaring Up Ruler #8973 was handy for cutting the strips to length.  

Making Plus A Star

Plus A Star is a really easy block…and at the same time, it is really easy to mess up on! My recommendation is don’t even think of making this without some kind of design wall. Unfortunately for me, while I have multiple design walls, they aren’t conveniently close to my machine, so I also made good use of my batting-covered, non-slip portable tray to carry sections between the design wall and the machine sewing and confirming the arrangement.

1. To me the star is the focal point of the block, so I started picking fabric for it that would emphasize my general color scheme and I planned right away to make plus signs of both these “theme” fabrics:

You may remember my talking about them in the fabric selection blog. The pieces in this block let them shine. For the same reason, I have already planned (looking way ahead) that I will have lots of these fabrics in my border.

2. After the star was done, I picked fabrics around it and worked my way up. Because each fabric is in contact with 4 to 6 surrounding fabrics, I thought I would lay out the entire thing and “audition all the actors” before sewing. But after a while I forced myself to commit and join some sections!

I photocopied Jen’s layout diagram and put it on the design wall to keep track of the tessellating plus signs – especially helpful since I was not using the same values as the illustration.

3. As Jen says, “Join the vertical rows.” My sewing system was much like Trip Around The World, except there are very few intersections that have to butt together, which is good and bad! Good, because there is less bulk and easier pressing decisions. Bad, because there were not obvious seams that line up.

I chose to complete the sewing on each vertical row and press every other row in opposite directions, except the Nine Patch and around the star. There I let the triangles control direction.

When joining the vertical rows, pin the ends of the rows and the 2 or 3 opposing seam allowances in each vertical seam to confirm the rows match before sewing. Check that you have pinned the correct edges together before you sew.

Obvious Statement!

In spite of the number of years I’ve sewn patchwork and the hundreds of times I’ve already said this, I can’t help myself— “Isn’t it neat how much better it looks when it is sewn and pressed than when it was just loose pieces on the design wall?”

Having said that, Let’s Look Ahead

Now that Plus a Star is done, if I do just a couple more rounds on one set of 4 Pineapple blocks, I can join the pieces for Section 4; see page 29 in the book.

If you haven't read ahead about Making the Quilt Top, please read page 25 and my next few sentences will make more sense.  I don’t think I mentioned that I had selected a small gray on white print for my checkerboard neutral and had made a small sample. I’ve also decided I’m not using the same fabric for the sashing and the neutral in the checkerboard. They are close, but not the same.

Putting one unit (Section 4) together now is another way of auditioning my choice. With just one section, it isn’t too late to change my mind.

Tune in next week for a picture of that section!

More About the Plus A Star Section

Visit these other Long Time Gone Sew Along blogs, too, for tutorials, contests and other info:

Use the hash tag #LongTimeGoneSAL to share photos on Instagram.

Long Time Gone by Jen Kingwell. Copyright 2016 by Jen Kingwell Designs. Available on From Marti Michell website,


April 11, 2017

Week 5: Long Time Gone Sew Along | Trip Around the World Patchwork

Take advantage of strip piecing to avoid handling 169 individual squares repeatedly while cutting, piecing and pressing. Just because it is scrappy doesn’t mean it has to be piece-by-piece. 😊

I picked the 3 center fabrics from 1-1/2 inch strips I had previously cut and laid them out on my portable design wall. Since it was such a focal point, I did strip piece 6-1/2 inch strips of #2 and #3 fabrics, cut 4 pairs and then sewed them into rows to make sure I liked the center.

Next I picked 4 more fabrics from the group I selected for this quilt. After a few false starts I settled on these. Here they are laid out to see how they progress from the center out. It’s a go. Love that green!

(Click on photos for a larger view).

As I got ready to cut the strips I realized I wanted to center one of the “Y” shapes in the 1 ½” strip. See the pen on the fabric? That is the line I’m talking about.

I loved the effect, but quickly realized I had turned the fabric into a directional print. You can see in this photo that if I only make one strip set, one side of the Y’s go up and one down.

I know most people don’t care, but I’ll sew two different strip sets long enough to cut 8 1-1/2 inch squares (15 inches or so). Press the strips in one direction but remember you will need to repress every other row when you complete the block.

This is the exact number of inches you need for fabric positions 4, 5, 6 and 7. Make strip sets of two, three or four of the fabrics and cross cut into 1-1/2 inch units. Then position those units into rows on your design board. I saw that Jen used two fabrics each in positions 6 and 7. I love the crispness of a defined Trip Around the World and I chose to make the all of the pieces in each position match.

I actually use the 1-inch Log Cabin Ruler to measure and make the cross cut pieces. You can see in this photo how nicely the markings for a, b, and c identify that the finished strips are a perfect 1-inch wide.

Arrange all of the strip units on your design board. (We ran out of space for the last 2 #7 pieces.) You could sew these pieces into complete rows now, but we chose to wait to join the units until the background pieces were added.

Background Pieces

There are 84 background squares, 21 in each corner of the block. We pulled a few appropriate pieces from the fabric strip stockpile and picked 10 new neutrals and cut strips 1-1/2 inch wide by at least 12 inches long. The first thing we did was cut one 1-1/2 inch square from the stack of strips. We will need some single squares. Then we sewed some strips in pairs and one set of three strips together. After pressing, those strips were cross cut into 1-1/2 inch units and arranged randomly on the background corners. Here the units are ready to sew:


Joining the Units and Rows

Work one half at a time. There are different numbers of units in each row so just pick up the first 2 units in each row, going from top to bottom and chain piece. Press them in order and put them back into rows in order.

Do it again from top to bottom, as needed. Not all rows will need a seam. When all of the units are joined on one half, rotate the design board and complete the other half of the block.

Here the rows are ready to be joined.

Every other row needs to have the seam allowances pressed to the right and every other row pressed to the left.

Pairs of rows...

then pairs of pairs..

and finally the completed block, a perfect 13-1/2 inch square, including seam allowances.

More About the Trip Around the World Section

Visit these other Long Time Gone Sew Along blogs, too, for tutorials, contests and other info:

Use the hash tag #LongTimeGoneSAL to share photos on Instagram.

Long Time Gone by Jen Kingwell. Copyright 2016 by Jen Kingwell Designs. Available on From Marti Michell website,